Blueberries
Expert guides on every fertilizer we carry, step-by-step crop growing instructions, and the science behind healthy soil.

Crop Overview
Blueberries have uniquely demanding soil and nutrient requirements that set them apart from nearly every other garden fruit. Their shallow, fibrous root systems lack root hairs, making them exceptionally sensitive to fertilizer salt concentration and soil pH. Blueberries require strongly acidic soil (pH 4.5-5.5) to properly absorb iron, manganese, and other micronutrients — even a slightly elevated pH can trigger severe chlorosis and decline. Nitrogen is the most critical macronutrient, but it must be supplied in the ammonium form (not nitrate), as blueberry roots cannot efficiently process nitrate nitrogen. This makes fertilizer selection more important for blueberries than almost any other crop in the home garden. Sulfur-coated urea or ammonium sulfate are preferred nitrogen sources because they also help maintain soil acidity. Over-fertilization is a common killer of blueberry bushes; their sensitive roots burn easily, and excessive nitrogen produces soft, flavorless berries that split in the rain. Proper fertilization combined with acidic mulch (pine needles, wood chips) creates the ideal growing environment. Most blueberry failures in home gardens trace back to incorrect pH or using the wrong type of fertilizer rather than too little nutrition overall.
How to Apply ?
Seedling
Newly planted blueberry bushes should receive no fertilizer for the first 4-6 weeks; after establishment, apply a light dose of ammonium sulfate in a ring 12 inches from the crown.
Vegetative
Apply ammonium-based fertilizer in split applications (early spring and late spring) to fuel new cane growth and leaf expansion without overwhelming the sensitive root system.
Flowering
Avoid fertilizing during active bloom to prevent flower drop; ensure adequate potassium from earlier applications supports strong flower cluster development and pollination.
Fruiting
A light mid-summer potassium boost improves berry size, sweetness, and firmness; cease all fertilization by mid-July to allow canes to harden off before winter.
Common Mistakes
Using nitrate-based fertilizers instead of ammonium-based nitrogen sources|Ignoring soil pH and planting in neutral or alkaline soil without amendment|Over-fertilizing which burns shallow roots and kills young plants|Applying lime or wood ash near blueberries which raises pH|Fertilizing too late in the season preventing proper winter hardening of canes
Organic Options
Wicked Organics Acid-Loving Plant Blend combined with cottonseed meal and sulfur provides ideal nutrition while maintaining low pH. Holly-tone or similar acidifying organic fertilizers work well, supplemented with a pine needle mulch that slowly acidifies as it decomposes.
Nutrient Deficiency Signs
Nitrogen
New leaves emerge small and pale yellow-green, overall bush growth is stunted with short thin shoots, and berry production declines significantly with smaller fruit.
Phosphorus
Older leaves develop a dull dark green to reddish-purple coloration, leaf margins may curl downward, and root development is noticeably poor in young transplants.
Potassium
Leaf margins on older leaves scorch and turn brown, berry size is reduced, fruit is soft and lacks sweetness, and bushes show poor winter hardiness.
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