Bulbs (Spring & Fall)
Expert guides on every fertilizer we carry, step-by-step crop growing instructions, and the science behind healthy soil.

Crop Overview
Flowering bulbs — including tulips, daffodils, crocus, hyacinths, alliums, and lilies — are self-contained nutrient packages that store the energy for next year's bloom in their modified underground stems. This unique biology means fertilization strategy is fundamentally different from most garden plants: the critical feeding window is after bloom, not before it, because that is when the foliage is manufacturing the carbohydrates that recharge the bulb for the following season. The single biggest nutritional mistake gardeners make is cutting back bulb foliage immediately after flowers fade — those yellowing leaves are the solar panels powering next year's show. Phosphorus and potassium are the most important nutrients for bulbs because they directly support root development and carbohydrate storage in the bulb structure. Nitrogen is needed in smaller amounts and primarily supports leaf growth during the post-bloom recharging period. At planting time, bone meal has been the traditional amendment mixed into the planting hole, though modern formulations like bulb-specific 9-9-6 blends often provide more balanced nutrition. Spring-planted summer bulbs (dahlias, gladiolus, cannas) have different needs than fall-planted hardy bulbs — they benefit from regular feeding throughout their growing season similar to annuals. For perennializing bulbs (those you expect to return and multiply year after year), an annual topdressing of balanced fertilizer in early spring as shoots emerge and again after bloom fades provides the nutrition needed for reliable long-term performance in the garden.
How to Apply ?
Seedling
At planting time (fall for spring bulbs), mix bone meal or a bulb-specific fertilizer into the bottom of the planting hole to provide phosphorus at the root zone where it is immediately accessible for root development.
Vegetative
As bulb foliage emerges in spring, apply a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or 5-10-10) as a topdressing to fuel leaf growth — these leaves are the energy factories recharging the bulb for next year's bloom.
Flowering
No additional fertilization is needed during active bloom; the flower is powered by energy stored in the bulb from the previous season's post-bloom growth period.
Fruiting
After flowers fade, apply a potassium-rich fertilizer to support maximum carbohydrate storage back into the bulb; allow foliage to yellow and die back naturally — do not cut until completely brown.
Common Mistakes
Cutting foliage back immediately after bloom before it has fully yellowed — this eliminates the solar energy collection that powers next year's flowers|Fertilizing only at planting and never again — perennial bulbs need annual nutrition to maintain vigor|Using high-nitrogen fertilizer which promotes leaf growth at the expense of bulb energy storage and bloom quality|Placing bone meal on the soil surface where it cannot reach the bulb's root zone 6-8 inches below|Planting in poorly drained soil where bulbs rot regardless of fertilization quality
Organic Options
Wicked Organics Bulb & Bloom Blend provides ideal nutrition at planting depth. Bone meal remains the classic organic phosphorus source for bulbs, and wood ash supplies potassium. After bloom, a topdressing of compost combined with kelp meal provides gentle balanced nutrition for the critical bulb-recharging period.
Nutrient Deficiency Signs
Nitrogen
Spring foliage is pale and stunted, producing fewer and smaller leaves than expected, which reduces the bulb's ability to recharge for next year's bloom cycle.
Phosphorus
Root development from the bulb base plate is poor, bulbs fail to perennialize (diminish year over year instead of multiplying), and bloom quality declines progressively each season.
Potassium
Flower stems are weak and flop over, bloom size and color intensity diminish, and bulbs show poor winter survival — smaller divisions emerge the following year or fail entirely.
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