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Peppers

Expert guides on every fertilizer we carry, step-by-step crop growing instructions, and the science behind healthy soil.

Crop Overview

Peppers — both sweet bells and hot varieties — are moderate to heavy feeders closely related to tomatoes but with distinct nutritional requirements and a more sensitive response to fertilizer imbalances. The most important difference from tomatoes is that peppers are more easily damaged by excessive nitrogen, which not only produces lush foliage at the expense of fruit but also increases susceptibility to blossom drop, bacterial leaf spot, and sunscald by creating an imbalanced leaf-to-fruit ratio. Pepper nutrient demands shift across four distinct phases: establishment (high phosphorus for root development at 1:2:1 N:P:K), vegetative growth (balanced nutrition at 1:1:1), flowering through fruit set (increased potassium at 2:1:3), and continued fruiting (maintained potassium with adequate calcium to prevent blossom end rot). This shifting ratio requirement makes peppers particularly well-suited to a split fertilization strategy where a moderate application of 5-10-10 at transplant provides the initial phosphorus boost, followed by side-dressings that emphasize potassium during fruit development. Peppers are also uniquely sensitive to temperature-nutrient interactions — phosphorus uptake is severely reduced in cold soil below 60°F, which is why using black plastic mulch to warm the soil simultaneously improves nutrient availability and growth rate. In New England's short growing season, starting transplants indoors 8-10 weeks before the last frost and using season-extending techniques like row cover becomes as important as proper fertilization for a successful harvest.

How to Apply ?

Seedling

At transplant, apply a starter fertilizer with higher phosphorus (such as 5-10-10 or a diluted water-soluble blend) and warm the soil with black plastic mulch to ensure roots can access phosphorus in cool spring soil.

Vegetative

Apply a balanced fertilizer every 2-3 weeks to build a strong leaf canopy before flowering begins; avoid excess nitrogen which will delay flowering and make plants vulnerable to blossom drop in hot weather.

Flowering

Switch to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula (such as 2-4-6 or similar) as flowers appear to promote fruit set; ensure adequate calcium availability to prevent blossom end rot on developing peppers.

Fruiting

Side-dress with potassium-rich fertilizer after the first fruit set to support continued production; maintain consistent moisture to ensure calcium transport to developing fruit and prevent blossom end rot.

Common Mistakes

Over-fertilizing with nitrogen which causes explosive leaf growth but few peppers and increased blossom drop during hot weather|Transplanting into cold soil where phosphorus is unavailable regardless of how much fertilizer is applied|Neglecting calcium supplementation leading to blossom end rot especially on bell pepper varieties|Applying the same fertilizer ratio throughout the season instead of shifting from P-heavy to K-heavy as plants mature|Stopping fertilization after the first harvest when pepper plants will continue producing into fall if properly fed

Organic Options

Wicked Organics Tomato & Pepper Blend provides balanced nutrition with calcium for blossom end rot prevention. Supplement with fish emulsion (5-1-1) during early vegetative growth, bone meal for phosphorus at transplant, and Epsom salt (1 tablespoon per gallon monthly) for magnesium to support chlorophyll production in dark green foliage.

Nutrient Deficiency Signs

Nitrogen

Older lower leaves turn uniformly pale yellow while upper leaves remain green, overall growth slows, plants appear thin and stunted, and fruit production is sparse with smaller-than-expected peppers.

Phosphorus

Leaves develop a dark green to purplish cast particularly on undersides and stems, root development is restricted in cool spring soil, flowering is delayed, and early fruit set is poor.

Potassium

Leaf margins turn brown and curl, fruit quality is poor with thin walls and bland flavor, sunscald increases due to inadequate leaf canopy, and plants show increased disease susceptibility.

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