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Pumpkin & Squash

Expert guides on every fertilizer we carry, step-by-step crop growing instructions, and the science behind healthy soil.

Crop Overview

Pumpkins and winter squash are true heavy feeders with a three-phase nutritional cycle that mirrors their dramatic growth habit — from seed to potentially 1,000+ pound fruit in a single season for giant varieties. The Cornell University pumpkin fertility guide emphasizes that while these cucurbits demand substantial nutrition, the nitrogen balancing act is critical: 75-100 pounds of nitrogen per acre is the recommended range, and higher rates actively suppress fruit production by promoting excessive vine growth that shades female flowers and interferes with bee pollination. The nutritional phases are distinct and non-negotiable. Phase one (germination through vine run) demands moderate nitrogen to build the massive leaf canopy that will power fruit development. Phase two (flowering through fruit set) requires a dramatic shift to phosphorus and potassium — a 6-10-10 or 5-10-10 formula — because continued high nitrogen at this stage causes blossom drop and poor fruit set. Phase three (fruit expansion through maturity) is all about potassium, which drives the rapid carbohydrate loading that builds thick rinds and dense sweet flesh. Calcium is also critical during fruit expansion; deficiency causes blossom end rot identical to that seen in tomatoes, particularly when soil pH drops below 6.0. Pumpkins grown on land where legume cover crops preceded them may need little to no supplemental nitrogen — the residual soil nitrogen from the legumes is often sufficient for the vegetative phase. Banding fertilizer rather than broadcasting is recommended because of the wide row spacing typical of vine crops.

How to Apply ?

Seedling

At planting, band 1-2 tablespoons of complete fertilizer (6-10-10 or 10-10-10) per hill, 3 inches beside and below seed level; avoid direct contact with seeds as salt injury is common in cucurbits during germination.

Vegetative

Side-dress with nitrogen (40 lbs N/acre or equivalent home garden rate) when vines begin to run to fuel the rapid canopy expansion; monitor leaf size — oversized leaves indicate excess nitrogen that will reduce fruit set.

Flowering

Switch to a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus and potassium formula as flowers appear; excess nitrogen during flowering causes blossom drop, shades female flowers, and interferes with pollination by reducing bee access.

Fruiting

Apply potassium-rich fertilizer (0-0-60 muriate of potash or organic alternatives) to support fruit expansion and rind development; ensure adequate calcium to prevent blossom end rot on developing fruit.

Common Mistakes

Applying too much nitrogen which creates massive vine growth but dramatically fewer and smaller fruit by shading flowers and reducing pollination|Using the same fertilizer ratio throughout the season instead of shifting from N-emphasis to P-K-emphasis as plants transition from vegetative growth to fruiting|Neglecting calcium which causes blossom end rot on developing pumpkins identical to the condition in tomatoes|Broadcasting fertilizer over the entire field rather than banding near the plant row — wide spacing makes broadcasting wasteful and less effective|Planting into soil following a legume cover crop without reducing nitrogen application, resulting in excessive vine growth

Organic Options

Wicked Organics Garden Blend provides excellent base nutrition when banded at planting. Aged manure or compost worked into hills before planting supplies both nutrition and the high organic matter these crops demand. For potassium supplementation during fruiting, wood ash (applied sparingly) or kelp meal provides slow-release potassium without the nitrogen surge these crops cannot tolerate during fruit development.

Nutrient Deficiency Signs

Nitrogen

Leaves are uniformly pale yellow-green, vine growth is stunted and slow to run, canopy fails to close between rows, and overall fruit set and size are reduced due to insufficient photosynthetic capacity.

Phosphorus

Leaf undersides develop a purplish coloration particularly in cool spring soil, root development is poor, early establishment is slow even after germination, and fruit set is delayed.

Potassium

Leaf edges develop brown scorching (hidden hunger often shows no symptoms until severe), fruit rinds are thin and soft with poor storage quality, and flavor is bland with reduced sugar content.

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