Roses
Expert guides on every fertilizer we carry, step-by-step crop growing instructions, and the science behind healthy soil.

Crop Overview
Roses are among the heaviest feeding ornamental plants in the landscape, requiring a consistent and well-timed nutrient program to produce the repeat bloom cycles that gardeners prize. The three macronutrients play distinct roles: nitrogen fuels the vigorous cane growth and dark green foliage that supports abundant flowering, phosphorus strengthens the root system and promotes bud formation, and potassium builds disease resistance and winter hardiness — a critical concern in New England's zones 4-6. Roses also have unusually high demands for secondary nutrients, particularly calcium (for strong cell walls and preventing bud failure), magnesium (for chlorophyll production and rich green leaves), and iron (for preventing interveinal chlorosis). The biggest fertilization challenge with roses is the nitrogen balancing act: too much produces lush green bushes with few blooms, while too little yields weak, spindly plants susceptible to black spot and powdery mildew. Timing is equally critical. Fertilization should begin in spring when new growth reaches 4-6 inches and new leaves show five to seven leaflets, then continue after each bloom cycle for repeat-blooming varieties. All fertilization must stop 6-8 weeks before the first expected frost to allow canes to harden off for winter. First-year roses need gentler treatment — liquid fertilizer at reduced rates — because newly established root systems burn easily from granular salt concentration. The combination of organic amendments for long-term soil health and targeted synthetic supplements for peak bloom performance gives the best results.
How to Apply ?
Seedling
Newly planted bare-root or container roses benefit from bone meal or superphosphate mixed into the bottom of the planting hole for root-zone phosphorus, plus a light application of liquid fertilizer after 4-6 inches of new growth appears.
Vegetative
As spring growth accelerates, apply a balanced rose fertilizer (10-10-10 or rose-specific blend) to fuel cane elongation and leaf canopy development that will support the coming bloom cycle.
Flowering
Fertilize after each flush of blooms is spent and deadheaded to fuel the next bloom cycle; use a formula with slightly higher phosphorus and potassium to support continued flower production without excessive vegetative growth.
Fruiting
N/A — roses are ornamental; however, if growing for rose hips, cease deadheading in late summer and reduce nitrogen to allow hips to develop and ripen before frost.
Common Mistakes
Over-fertilizing with nitrogen which produces impressive foliage but dramatically fewer blooms|Fertilizing too late in fall which stimulates tender growth that cannot survive winter freezing|Using granular fertilizer on dry soil without watering before and after which burns feeder roots|Neglecting to feed after each bloom cycle causing repeat-blooming varieties to stall out|Ignoring soil pH which must stay between 6.0-6.5 for roses to properly absorb micronutrients like iron
Organic Options
Wicked Organics Flower Blend provides balanced slow-release nutrition ideal for roses. Supplement with alfalfa meal (excellent for promoting vigorous growth and increased bloom production), bone meal for phosphorus, and Epsom salt (1 tablespoon per foot of plant height, dissolved in water) monthly to supply magnesium for rich green foliage.
Nutrient Deficiency Signs
Nitrogen
Leaves are uniformly pale yellow-green across the plant, cane growth is thin and weak, flower production is sparse, and overall plant vigor declines with reduced disease resistance.
Phosphorus
Foliage appears dull gray-green, stems are weak and spindly, buds fail to open or drop prematurely, and root development is poor — particularly noticeable in newly planted roses.
Potassium
Leaf margins turn brown and crispy (marginal scorch), flower size and color intensity are reduced, stems are brittle, and winter hardiness is compromised leading to increased cane dieback.
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